Signaless in Seattle
Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-25 14:38:15
Kevsh, while im waiting for tp-link sales to find out if i can even get the TP-LINK EAP110-Outdoor what AP do you use at your existing antenna?
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#12
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-25 23:58:01
I use the WA-5110G. Its used for the BBS and WOW server.
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#13
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-27 01:23:18
can you shed some light on the enclosure you have the AP in? looks like im going to try to mimic your setup
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#14
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-27 03:55:29
The main reason I went with the desktop access point was it was cheap in cost and the wa5110g offered a 400milliwatt output with flexibility to use any antenna I wanted too. I do understand FCC rules regarding wifi EIRP levels. The tplink 2412D omni-directional antenna, had the receive and transmit gain I needed. TPLink has three other models 701ND,801ND and 901ND that has Power over Ethernet built in from the manufacture.The wa5110g is a legacy device now so your options will be limited unless you find another access point or router. What I did as shown below was to use Styrofoam meat coolers to install my wifi devices in, it was cheap in cost and it works to keep the weather out. I used a small 1/2" board on the inside bottom, and a 2"x4" on the outside bottom, and used 3" deck screws to secure both pieces together. All desktop AP, routers have mounting groves on their bottom, and you will have to find two small screws to use to mount the unit. The wa5110g had them included but other manufactures may not. I'm currently looking for a dual band unit and I have my interests in the EnGenius ENH710EXT its is a little pricey but my use requires it.





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#15
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-27 06:20:14
Appreciate the feedback.

So if i summarize this is what im looking at.

1) Keep the antenna where it is (works the best for me there)
2) Get a 1-2 foot 400 lmr cable
3) Install an access point with good output power to the antenna (or the same router jacked up to 251mw) in a weather proof enclosure (i have a spare pelican box i can use)
4) Run power to the AP
5) Run Eithernet (or i suppose i can go wireless but throughput goes down) to the AP
6) Ground the antenna
7) bobs your uncle.

Still a bit worried about the heat generated inside the box. Roof tops here in texas can get over 140+ Any thoughts there or just assume minimized lifetime of the unit? If i select an AP with that sort of 400mw+ output to the antenna. Could i in theory go longer on the 400lmr cable from the ap to the antenna? If so i could in theory mount the box inside the houses' attic (which may be just as hot but out of the elements i could mount a fan to it or something?

Sorry so many questions, really appreciate you hanging in there with me.
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#16
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-27 11:08:45
Yeah, I would not mount the AP in the attic at all since the heat would be extreme.The AP could be mounted on the chimney with a mount. As for a heat problem in the box I have no problems for one my enclosure is a bright white and it does not adsorb much sun light it has been running 24/7 since spring of 2013. The other members here have other solutions such the tp link CP series AP, but the built in antennas are directional, and I don't know your exact needs.I have installed alot of antennas on towers, and your main problem for wifi with that high antenna will be lightning storms. One nearby strike within 1/2 mile will damage the Access Point, the strike does not have to be a direct hit. So when storms do come I just power my unit down.
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#17
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-02-27 17:40:54
I agree with kevsh and would also not recommend to mount the AP in the attic if heat can go up to 140°F. As for lightning, ESD and even rain or humidity any consumer-grade device made for indoor use only will be problematic, too.

In one installation I had a Linksys WRT160 (the same device as on kevsh's photo) in the open, b/c of customer's demand and it did break just after a couple of months during coldness in winter. OTOH a Linksys WRT54 in my own attic survived somewhat longer, but there were no such extreme temperatures (~ 20 to 100°F usually) and the WRT54 was a rock-solid device with shielded Ethernet ports, so it was grounded to protect against ESD, while the WRT160 has plastic ports w/o shielding.

I switched to TP-Link's Professional Line of outdoor APs in early 2016. I have a CPE210, a CPE510 and a WBS210 with sector antenna on two locations. All devices did survive storms with heavy lightning ~1/4 mile away! Did not cause any problem so far. Having a temperature range from -22°F to 158°F they also kept on working in last winter's coldness. They use MIL-grade chips and weatherproof boxes, so no trouble anymore with the housing. I did wait for the EAP110-Outdoor for a year now (it was announced as OBS210 in TP-Link's product guide of early 2016) and it finally arrived on the market, although with EAP firmware instead of PharOS used in the WBS210. I will soon install them at customer's places needing omnidirectional 360° antennas.

First photo shows two CPEs on a mast powered by one PoE power source looped through the second port from the first CPE to the second CPE. This photo was taken at the time of adjustment, they are now fixed in their positions and work flawlessly since then. Antenna beamwidth is 65° for the CPE210 (2.4 GHz) and 45° for the CPE510 (5 GHz). They are used for a PtP directional link to the other side of the valley, where a second CPE combination is used. But if the beamwidth and (much lower) distance would suffice, you could also use them in a PtMP setup with end-user devices.





Second photo is a WBS210 mounted to the TL-ANT2415MS sector antenna (beamwidth 120°) in use as PtMP since last autumn, also working w/o any problem:






This is how I answered the questions in your post #16 which did arise for me as well long time ago. ;)

I still have external antennas with appropriate outdoor equipment (such as the older TL-WA7210 which has an external antenna plug) and lot of CFD-200 antenna cables for sale at eBay, but since it is EU gear it isn't suitable for use in the US.
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#18
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-03-01 11:28:21
Seems i found a US vendor http://www.memorydepot.com/detail/EAP110-Outdoor.html So lets so i go this route, I can still get the 1-2foot (1 metre) and hook up the antenna i already have and mounted. How does the EAP-110 retrieve the inbound connection through the POE (i assume).

Unfortunately we're a Wi-Max provider out here and in the attic is where they have their PoE the runs from the dish to our router. I would have to intercept that line (ethernet) at some point in the attic. What would be the best way? a small switch? Some other cool splinter POE or something?
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#19
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-03-01 20:02:02

simplegreen wrote

Seems i found a US vendor http://www.memorydepot.com/detail/EAP110-Outdoor.html So lets so i go this route, I can still get the 1-2foot (1 metre) and hook up the antenna i already have and mounted. How does the EAP-110 retrieve the inbound connection through the POE (i assume).


Connection is through data cable, PoE just means that power is supplied over the same cable. See page 6 of the Installation Guide for schematics (ignore that the IG is for the EU model, it's still the same for the US model):

http://static.tp-link.com/EAP110-Outdoor(EU)_V1_IG_1479275525987w.pdf

More information about the EAP110-Outdoor in english language can be found here:

http://www.tp-link.com.au/products/details/cat-5693_EAP110-Outdoor.html


Unfortunately we're a Wi-Max provider out here and in the attic is where they have their PoE the runs from the dish to our router. I would have to intercept that line (ethernet) at some point in the attic. What would be the best way? a small switch? Some other cool splinter POE or something?


You need to connect the EAP to your WiMAX router (LAN), not to the dish antenna. Suitable cable including a ground wire is the ToughCable from UBNT:

https://www.ubnt.com/accessories/toughcable/
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#20
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Re:Signaless in Seattle
2017-03-03 14:23:59
To hard for me........
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#21
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