Totally lost
This thread has been locked for further replies. You can start a new thread to share your ideas or ask questions.Totally lost
This thread has been locked for further replies. You can start a new thread to share your ideas or ask questions.
I'm coming from other OEM switches that ask for a "gateway" or router IP address, subnet address and switch static address. I see a default VLAN 1 with a pre-filled subnet and the default swtich address of 192.168.0.1. But none of the online guides I've seen show how to change 192.168.0.1 to something else and add a rounrter or gateway address. Also, the hardware version of the switch is not displayed anywhere on the product sticker. I've downloaded and installed the Omada Controller software. But it does nothing when launched on my laptop directly connected to the switch. I do not want to use the cloud to manage the switch I want to manage it from my LAN>
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Yep, not as friendly as “other OEM switches” configuration wizards, but the information is there. Chapter 2.4 in the User Guide.
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@PP_link @KJK So after returning my switch, I listened to @KJK and ordered the exact same replacement since I like the feature set of the TL-SG3452X . My IP assignment issues has been solved with the new switch. The previous switch would loose my IP settings and return to the switch defaults every time the switch was powered down. The new switch does not. However, I still have the SFP transceiver issue. For some reason it only works with my NAS. I' m going to order new 10GBE TP-Link TL-SM5110-LR SFP+ modules under the assumption that the switch does not like the 10GBE gek modules that work with my NAS but, for some reason, not my router and admin PC. Thank you all for your help.
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Thanks for sharing. Nice to know it worked out. I use 10Gtek SFP+ modules with OM3 (aqua) cables. DAC cables for short distances worked for me, too. Good luck!
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@KJK Last update. So the new, replacement, 10GBE TP-Link TL-SM5110-LR SFP+ modules work. I now have all three SFP connections and the switch is working fine.
Couple of observations: Both TL-SG3452X switches I ordered from Amazon appeared to have be used before and that may have been the cause of my problems. The first one came without the protective plastic bag over the switch and had visible finger prints on it. The second one came with the rack ears already installed on the switch. The first switch was clearly defective; it lost settings every time the power was cut off. The second switch has so far worked as advertised and I'm glad this community urged me to keep drilling down on troubleshooting. Thanks to all for your help.
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