EAP225 deployed in mesh (residential application) advices/recommendations
I am the IT manager at my work and I deployed a complete TP-LINK Omada system 2 years ago with several EAP225-v3 + the Omada controller and this system is absolutely fantastic especially considering it low price. I am now considering to deploy the a similar system at my home with two EAP245 to fix some issues I have with my internet provider (Bell Fibe Canada) wireless router with the signal and the overall stability.
My house is a modern cottage (2 stories) all made of wood with a narrow 27x27 feet square floorplan and it have a basement level where I have my IT room with my actual wireless router. So if I want to place a first AP in the basement (wired) and a second at the highest level of my 2nd floor, I need to be able to establish a wireless (mesh) link between the 2 APs, if that's possible. I was told that the EAP245 isn't supporting *officially* the mesh network feature yet but that TP-Link have a stable BETA firmware for that. The other option would be to purchase EAP225 except they are lower speed that the EAP245... I don't actualy understand why the EAP245 seem to be depricated (sort of) when the lower-end model the EAP225 is still fully maintained??
I would like to have your recommendation/advices regarding mesh networking with the TP-Link Omada APs. If mesh isn't the optimal layout, a second option would be to run an ethernet cable in-wall to my 1st floor, which is accessible from the basement in opposite to the 2nd floor where it's not possible to run ethernet cables. So I could place a first AP in the basement to cover the basement level (wall made of concrete) and the second AP would be on the 1st floor (wired) to cover the 1st and 2nd floors and also cover the exterior of the house (such as my pool's deck) I assume. My current setup with a single wireless router located in the basement (concrete) offer a decent signal to 1st and 2nd floor but signal is dead as soon as you exit from the house to the deck (attached to the house) which is one of my problem, if for any reason the signal is still poor outside, I guess that one option could be to add a 3rd AP outdoor like the EAP225-OUTDOOR...
I hope my question/concern is clear enough, if not, please ask me more about it! ;-)
Thanks!!
- Copy Link
- Subscribe
- Bookmark
- Report Inappropriate Content
Well, it looks like my actual setup isn't that much stable... my problem is obviously with the mesh uplink between root AP in the basement and mesh AP on the 2nd floor. Typical signal is -64 dBm which is "acceptale", but it often drop down to -78 dBm and then the bandwith become way too limited to be viable. This afternoon I was working from home with my laptop on the 2nd floor and while my signal were super strong to the mesh AP, the bandwidth were just too small for my Microsoft Team to work properly.
Since it's impossible to run a physical ethernet cable up to the 2nd floor AP, what are my options? I know someone suggested a coaxial network adapter (on RG6), but I don't have any coaxial cable in this area neither...
So maybe Powerline Ethernet for the uplink instead of the mesh uplink? Something like the TP-Link TL-PA7017-KIT maybe. I don't know if it matters for Powerline Ethernet, but my house is only 10 years ago and built according to the most modern electrical systems.
Any suggestions are welcome!
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
SimonC. wrote
So maybe Powerline Ethernet for the uplink instead of the mesh uplink? Something like the TP-Link TL-PA7017-KIT maybe.
Powerline/PowerLAN is the next best option if cabling isn't possible, but it isn't as reliable as a cable.
I don't know whether in your country 3-phase AC is used, but if so, PowerLAN is restricted to one phase (cross-talking between phases is possible, but only with huge attenuation of the signal on neighboring phases). Thus, if your rooms are connected to different phases and you want to carry the signal on all three phases, an additional phase-coupler will be needed.
Note that devices such as drilling machines, vacuum cleaners etc. can cause interferences to the PowerLAN signal, so bandwidth migth be reduced if those devices are in use. But for typical home use, PowerLAN is an acceptable solution.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
R1D2 wrote
SimonC. wrote
So maybe Powerline Ethernet for the uplink instead of the mesh uplink? Something like the TP-Link TL-PA7017-KIT maybe.
Powerline/PowerLAN is the next best option if cabling isn't possible, but it isn't as reliable as a cable.
I don't know whether in your country 3-phase AC is used, but if so, PowerLAN is restricted to one phase (cross-talking between phases is possible, but only with huge attenuation of the signal on neighboring phases). Thus, if your rooms are connected to different phases and you want to carry the signal on all three phases, an additional phase-coupler will be needed.
Note that devices such as drilling machines, vacuum cleaners etc. can cause interferences to the PowerLAN signal, so bandwidth migth be reduced if those devices are in use. But for typical home use, PowerLAN is an acceptable solution.
I am located in Canada, where we have same power system as in the USA which is single-phased 120V AC. I already used PowerLine Ethernet in this house 10 years ago, but it was a "first generation" product and I remember it to be perfectly stable (do not drop), however back 10 years ago it was 300 Mbps model who perform around 90-100 Mbps in real-world situation. I hope that with the latest generation PowerLine Ethernet advertised to 1000 Mbps I can hope for a 50% performance around 500 Mbps? If I can reach a perfectly stable around-400 Mbps that could be a good uplink for my wireless AP I assume. Because for the moment when the mesh uplink drop down to -78 dBm, I don't even reach a stable 10 Mbps bandwidth...
One more question... is it possible to "force" the mesh uplink to the 2.4 Ghz network? Because when I drop to -78 dBm I am on the 5.0G network as well, but I assume that a fully stable full signal 2.4 Ghz would be a better uplink that a low signal 5.0 Ghz uplink?? But I don't see any option to limit the uplink to go on the 2.4 Ghz band. I remember a full signal on 2.4 Ghz band is around 450 Mbps which is not bad and probably the same speed I can hope from a PowerLine Ethernet adapter?
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
SimonC. wrote
I hope that with the latest generation PowerLine Ethernet advertised to 1000 Mbps I can hope for a 50% performance around 500 Mbps?
Can't answer this, I didn't test bandwidth of Gigabit PowerLAN adapters. However, some of our (business) customers use PowerLAN with more or less success.
One more question... is it possible to "force" the mesh uplink to the 2.4 Ghz network? Because when I drop to -78 dBm I am on the 5.0G network as well, but I assume that a fully stable full signal 2.4 Ghz would be a better uplink that a low signal 5.0 Ghz uplink??
Yes, a 2.4 GHz signal penetrates obstacles better than 5 GHz. But for a mesh-uplink at least the bandwidth is needed that is provided by the frequency band with the larger bandwidth – the 5 GHz band. That's why you cannot force the mesh uplink to use the 2.4 GHz band.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
R1D2 wrote
Yes, a 2.4 GHz signal penetrates obstacles better than 5 GHz. But for a mesh-uplink at least the bandwidth is needed that is provided by the frequency band with the larger bandwidth – the 5 GHz band. That's why you cannot force the mesh uplink to use the 2.4 GHz band.
I surely understand the technical side of this, however IMO a strong 2.4G signal is surely still better than a super-weak 5.0G signal as for bandwidth.
I'll probably give a try to latest general PowerLine Ethernet adapter (1 Gbps) and benchmark them myself with a laptop before considering to use them as a uplink for my wireless AP. If they don't perform at least to 450-500 Mbps and pretty stable (I'll run several test such as microwave, vaccum cleaner, etc), I'll return them as they wont be a strong enough solution for my uplink... thanks to Amazon A-to-Z satisfaction policy.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Hi @SimonC,
My appologies for not having waded through this entire thread yet. But I did want to make one comment re: MESH. Have you tried re-positioning your EAP's? While these ceiling mounted AP's have an omni directional radiation pattern, the are designed to be ceiling mounted with the majority of the RF radiation projecting down in a conical section. The signal "above" the ceiling mounted EAP is weaker than it is below.
In my two store home (I don't use MESH indoors) but I did significantly improve my coverage by placing the 1st floor unit on a table facing up, and the second floor unit on the ceiling facing down. Something like this (and placing the EAP's directly over one another) could significantly help the MESH signal.
Did you also try different channels 36 vs 149? For some crazy reason my Outdoor MESH works much better when I use the custom power setting (instead of High or Medium) and select something in the 14 to 18 dBM range.
PowerLine can work, too. I've not tried any of the newer 2nd and 3rd gen products. I believe there are two different data encoding standards as well. With powerline, try to identify a circuit that is a "straight shot" if possible. If at all possible place the units on the same branch circuit or place one in the remote location and one as close to the panel box as possible. Ideally on the first receptacle on the branch (not daisy chained ones after). Also these must be plugged directly into the wall with no interveneing power strips or surge supressors.
If PowerLine doesn't work, you may have to step up to a higher end 3 node MESH solution with a didicated 5GHz backhaul, like one of the Orbi or Deco solutions.
-Jonathan
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Hi @SimonC,
These two models seem to have very good reviews:
TP-Link AV2000 Powerline Adapter
Zyxel AV2000 1800 Mbps Powerline Pass-Thru
They are each about $85-90 on Amazon.
They also make powerlines with Wifi built in. The TP-Link ones actually seem to have pretty good reviews (Model TP-Link TL-WPA8630 v2)
TP-Link AV1300 Powerline WiFi Extender - Powerline Adapter with AC1350 Dual Band WiFi
-Jonathan
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Well, yes, I did try to move both the root AP and the mesh AP, however I have limited location option, the one in my basement (the root wired AP) are in my electrical room and can't be really anywhere else. Then the second mesh AP are located right in the middle of my home, in the hall between bedrooms. Here also I have limited option since it needs to be near of a power outlet... I did try several mount options and didn't really see signal change, I changed my roof AP from roof to a table top and same for the mesh AP, I changed from roof to a small cofee table, with not much change in the signal.
I just talk to one of my best friend who's the kind of a real handyman and he told me that maybe we can run an ethernet cable by following my air exchanger main conduit which goes from the basement to the 2nd floor floor attic, so that way we should be able to reach the roof of the 2nd floor with an ethernet cable. But will be a long run since we will need to find a way to run the ethernet cable trought 3 main obstacles which are the 1st floor, the 2nd floor and the roof of the house, but since the air exchanger conduit are not that much tight (it's a flexible conduit), that is possible. I assume it would be even possible to run the ethernet cable INSIDE the air exchange conduit, since it's a low pressure air conduit, I don't see much of a problem running a small cable inside it!
To be continued...
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Hi @SimonC,
Thanks for the update. Often, it's much easier (though perhaps less attractive) to run the cable outside the house, up the wall, and back into the attic. In a commercial setting "Plenum" rated cable is required for running side of an air duct (or plenum).
But in a residential setting, you can probably ignore this requirement.
Don't for get the 100m Gigabit limitation, less for PoE -- ~50-60m.
-Jonathan
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
JSchnee21 wrote
Hi @SimonC,
Thanks for the update. Often, it's much easier (though perhaps less attractive) to run the cable outside the house, up the wall, and back into the attic. In a commercial setting "Plenum" rated cable is required for running side of an air duct (or plenum).
But in a residential setting, you can probably ignore this requirement.
Don't for get the 100m Gigabit limitation, less for PoE -- ~50-60m.
-Jonathan
I also considered to run cable outside the house then return into the attic, but it will be a pretty long run since my house is pretty wide... like a 90-100 feet (30M) run if you consider to cross the house 2 times top & bottom, then the vertical lenght. In the other hand if I follow (or enter) the air exchange conduit, it's a direct-run of maybe 25 feet (8M) at maximum.
I kow what you mean about the "Plenum" rated cable, I usually do commercial installation more than residential, but I also don't think it's required in residential, especially because it's not a furnance/air conditionning conduit, it's just a warm (room temp) air exchanger conduit. I have air conditionning/heat pump, but it's a separated dual head (one per floor) wall mount "split" units who have nothing to do with this conduits.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Information
Helpful: 0
Views: 10735
Replies: 35
Voters 0
No one has voted for it yet.