BETADINE wrote

Everithing works fine, but sometimes the wifi stops working (limited connectivity on the pc/mac/iphone) an the led status od the wifi on the tplink turns CONTINUOUS green
if i restart the router manually everithing works fine again for a certain time (it could be 15 minutes or hours)

Sounds to me like channel selection is set to automatic and the device loses WiFi connectivity due to environmental influences or due to non-optimal placement of the routers. Probably you can stabilize the link between the two routers by selecting a fixed WiFi channel (the most unused by other devices in your neighborhood) and by carefully tuning certain parameters of both devices, such as 802.11 mode, channel width etc. Anyway, if repeater mode is flaky because of interferences in your environment, it will be so no matter which firmware (stock firmware, OpenWRT, Gargoyle) you use.

sarahtaylor wrote

I purchased router 150 Mbps, almost a month back for use my Custom Essay Writing Company, but there is an issue in it as it is not working as expected. The speed is less than the device is showing and the working is also not good. Which one is best?

Wrong question. Correct question should be: What do I have to obey to achieve the best out of [any device]?

First of all, a router capable of 150 Mbit/s achieves this speed on WiFi radio frames only, so you could achieve around 60 to 70 Mbit/s for the data transferred under ideal environmental conditions. But: the more foreign WiFi routers using the same channel are around your place, the lower the amount of AirTime your device gets (time slice per unit your device is able to use for sending/receiving). Since on any WiFi channel there can be only one device using it at the same time - be it your client device, a router (not necessarily yours) or anything other (bluetooth devices, DECT phones, TV bridges, radio-controlled toys etc.) - the amount of AirTime will also influence the total speed one can achieve.

Next, actual WiFi speed ( not data speed) depends on many other factors such as operating mode, client device capabilities, interferences etc. For example, old client devices often are capable only of 802.11b in the 2.4 GHz band. This means that WiFi speed is limited to something between 1 Mbit/s to 54 Mbit/s yielding 500 Kbit/s to 25 Mbit/s for data. Both devices connected together will negotiate the best speed to ensure stable communication. Higher speeds require 802.11g or 802.11n with two simultaneous WiFi streams (called MIMO), which in turn require as much as 8 free WiFi channels in the 2.4 Ghz band (two in 5 GHz band) to be used simultaneously. That's almost impossible in dense urban environments as we have today. With a router capable of using the 5 GHz band, speed can be considerably improved, but at the price of a much lower signal range than what is possible in the 2.4 GHz band.

Lastly, the quality of the antennas of your client device can further limit overall speed and reliability of a WiFi link. For example, the WiFi antenna of an iPhone is the metal band surrounding the casing. I personally wouldn't call this a true "WiFi antenna", but rather a piece of tin plate. ;)

That in mind, there is no such thing as a "best device" or "best firmware". Of course, there are "best conditions" under which almost all devices with any firmware get the best out of what is technically possible.