[request] Disassembly TP link Deco p9 Repair Noise
[request] Disassembly TP link Deco p9 Repair Noise
I
I have bough 3 V1 version and 3 V2 version (no warranty paper).
The V2 are OK.
But ALL THE V1 are doing a high pitch noise (I think it's a bad capacitor). I want to open the shell to pinpoint the culprit and fix the issue, as this is out of warranty.
They still work, but the noise is unbearable!
Can someone tell me how to disassemble this product so I can check capacitors?
Regards
- Copy Link
- Subscribe
- Bookmark
- Report Inappropriate Content
@JoaoPt Hi Joao,
My set of decos P9 (indeed, also of the v1 variety) developed exactly the same problem: an irritant hf beep. Of course this popped up just weeks after the guarantee expired (on target designed in China) So I contacted customer care... and they (someone in Nieuwegein, at the Dutch tp-link branch) wrote to me that it is a little coil (the counterpart of a capacitor in hf-electronics) in the "current adapter" that gets lose and then starts making the hf sound... He indicated things could be taken care of with a new current adapter, that I could order (!) for € 5 plus € 5 postage. Manageable it seemed to me, so I ordered. And received, many weeks later: a simple euro power cord, exactly like I already had with my P9... In these many weeks I was waiting, a second unit had also started beeping So I contacted 'customer care' and complained, explained everything etc. and ordered more "current adapters," waited for weeks again... and then the postman rang, to deliver, fresh from tp-link: even more simple euro power cords. I give up: a customer care department where they apparently do not care about customers. DISAPPOINTING to put it mildly.
This leaves me at the same point where you are Joao: how to open those darn P9 units? I rather do it my self. I guess one can identify the coil (small choke, common in switching power supplies), and apply some high Temperature lacquer or so, in order to more or less fixate the lose coil ... Now if only I knew how to reversibly open the unit.
kind regards,
Mark, Amstelveen
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
TP link is trash. Used to be a good brand, not anymore. No firmware updates, limited config option, and V2 is very different from V1. They maintain the name, but the inside is different (firmware is also different). I mean, instead of free fix, we have to buy the V2 version. And they don't provide any user-fix guide.
I tried to open this but I gave up middle way because I was afraid of breaking the plastic...
I am just tolerating the noise.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
@JoaoPt same issue here. I bought mine in May 2020 and the noise is getting worst everyday.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Hi, Thanks for the feedback and Deco P9 V1 has been end of life for a while.The noise could not be reduced via a software upgrade and the engineers have already analyzed the affected products and confirmed that the issue won't affect the network performance. So if the device is still warranty and you really care about the norice, please contact the local office or shop retailer to replace it with Deco P9 V2.
Best regards.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Same problem here so I but the bullet. There are four cross tip screws under the four foot pads on the bottom of the unit. These need to be peeled up on one end to access and remove screws. The thin strip of blue plastic surrounding the Ethernet ports can be pryed off gently using a small flathead screwdriver.
Both the to and bottom of the unit can be separated from the white housing the same way with a flathead screwdriver (be gentle working your way around the entire perimeter).
Once this is done you should be able to slide the main assembly (two circuit cards connected to the bottom blue circular plastic piece) out the bottom of the unit. It may take some wiggling and pushing from the top inside to work the circuit cards loose.
I plan to turn unit on outside of the housing to follow the noise and identify the failed capacitors for replacement, being careful to avoid any contact with live voltage (just listen, don't touch and connect power cable to unit before connecting power cable to wall).
Remove power, solder and replace faulty parts, reassembly in reverse order.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
@jman79 funny I did the same yesterday xD.
The culprit is almost certainly the 470uf 16V capacitor (two each unit).
I just don't know if I am capable of replace it my self or if should pay.
Those capacitor are a little bulged on top, and I suspect yours too.
Cheers!
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
@JoaoPt yes... Same. Mine are bulged up on top also. You can do it. Solder iron from the bottom and apply pulling force gently from top of capacitor. Once both legs are desoldered it'll slide right out. Use a 15 watt or lesser soldering iron to avoid damaging things. Caps are dirt cheap vs. cost of replacement item. If you've gone that far you should just do it. Cheers :)
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Information
Helpful: 2
Views: 13547
Replies: 11
Voters 0
No one has voted for it yet.