KE100 does not fully close valve
Hello, the KE100 fits directly onto my valve (M30x1.5), but does not fully close the valve if set to FR. The problem seems to be the length of the way between fully open and fully closed. While KE100 has a difference of 11mm (close) to 14mm (fully open), my Heimeier thermostat has 8mm (close) to 14mm (fully open), i.e. even if the KE100 is set on FR, the pin on the valve still extrudes 3mm, which causes considerable heating. There seem to be no adapters for this kind of problem, or are there?
So I was wondering, why Heimeier is on the compatability list.
Are there any solutions for this?
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Recaibration did the trick. I had to switch on the valve from within the App first, though. Now it is working just fine.
Thanks for the help
Horst
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Have you tried to calibrate KE100? Does it help?
Can you share some pictures of your thermostat and pictures when the KE100 is installed?
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I have HW 1.0 FW 2.10.0 bought some days ago.
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Which adapter do you use? Here are a few things you can try:
1. Recalibrate the valve. *Device Settings > Calibration
2. Fully close the valve by enabling the summer mode -- Fully Close.
3. If you're using the M30 adapter, try to put a coin to the valve, see if that helps.
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Recaibration did the trick. I had to switch on the valve from within the App first, though. Now it is working just fine.
Thanks for the help
Horst
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@Wayne-TP
Hello, I have a similar problem - my KE100s aren't fully closing the valves.
Bought 3x KE100 a few days ago, have the MR30 valves (standard pannel house radiators in Czechia if that makes any difference), successfully installed them, added them to the hub and app, updated the firmware and calibrated them. They react to the set temperature, everything seems ok, except that when they close the valve, they don't do it fully, even in the Summer mode, and the heating is on 24/7.
I tried (on 2 of the bought KE100s and 2 different valves):
recalibrating (both in the app and manually, many times)
resetting and callibrating again
Summer mode
I tried the trick you suggested with the coin - but all it did was that it made a bit weirder sound at the end but didn't push that extra needed mm
Please do you have any suggestions? Or is it possible that the motors in KE100 are just not strong enough for the pannel house radiator valves?
My old valve heads close the radiators with no issue.
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Photo of the old working valve head and the ke100
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