previous connection
previous connection
(just installed new router + brand new to TP-Link; feel free to speak 'techno-inept')
Want to check/verify current hook-up (done via Tether AND lovely tech assistant on
support chat...replaced Netgear AC1900 - R7000 ...originally installed by cable tech
when first purchased AND was given free modem from ISP (Insight>TWC>Spectrum).
Over the years, I have 'upgraded' cords (3/4/5/now Cat-6) and 'upgraded' modems as
available via ISP. Always simply 'unplug one/insert new'...ALWAYS same connection.
As nothing was mentioned in video (and chat support said "serves no purpose") have
NOT re-connected the cord from the back of desktop (label says "Ethernet") to router
(was originally plugged into "LAN 1" of the Netgear router). Should it have been?
Should new AX11000 be 're-connected' like before? Totally useless? Then why....??
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I'll answer each one as well, and in some cases, give the same answer so you know it is correct:
TexasIndian wrote
#2 ArcherC8OLD router had ethernet cable connected, NOT now, lying on ground unplugged until.....
(moot since sounds as less wireless used, more 'juice' wireless devices get). Where do I
re-attach the cord from "Ethernet" on back of desktop to? Any LAN#? Does it matter? Will
I then need to 'reconfigure'/re-install the router someway? Or is it 'automatic? (idiot-proof)?
Forget about the OLD router and how it connected for now. Make SURE it is powered OFF!!! Otherwise it will TRANSMIT SSID's and could cause problems for you.
I'll assume you are NOW connected WIRELESS. At 100Mbps from the ISP, you'll probably be OK. The HP has a 802.11 Wireless b/g/n PCI-E Mini card internally and can do connected to a 2.4Ghz SSID (or even a 5Ghz SSID) Data transfer speeds up to 150 Mbps Going back to wired would offer no real advantage.
LAN ports though (ANY of them) will connect IF you have the PC's Ethernet port enabled, nothing to do on the router to make that happen.
TexasIndian wrote
# 5 IrvSp
Currently receive only 100Mbps from our ISP (only availability in this neighborhood) :-((
Set up router to Smart Connect devices (again, 'automatic' is idiot-proof, can't screw it up).
PC is HP Pavilion Elite HPE 500f (with a few upgrade options added at time of purchase).
See above, STAY on Wireless for now at least. No need to go back to wired.
TexasIndian wrote
#6 IrvSpAll 7 grandkids fly effortlessly around cells/Chromebooks, roll their eyes, sigh "oh PawPaw".
HP ENVY Photo 7855 currently NOT connected via Ethernet (will be soon as I buy new cord)
to date has always printed via HP Smart...but if wired adds 'juice' to wireless devices, then....
I have the IDENTICAL HP Printer. You CAN and SHOULD connect it to the router via the Printer Control panel. Here is a LINK to the MANUALS, https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-envy-photo-7800-all-in-one-printer-series/9073159/model/9073160/manuals. Get the USER'S GUIDE, and look at CHAPTER 8 on how to set up wireless. Then each PC should have the PRINTER s/w installed on it and each PC can then PRINT to it. Most phones and tablets can as well as they will see the HP7855 as a printer choice. DO NOT MESS WITH WIRING as you can ONLY wire it to one PC.
No such thing as 'juice' and I assume you mean connection speeds. Router work with DATA packets, gets one, handles it, gets another then and handles it. Even a wired device does the same process inside a router. Now, if you ONLY want one PC to have a printer, then by all means, install the printer to that PC.
Not sure what you mean by 'HP Smart'? I have installed the 7855 on my PC (and others here) and do not use the 'tool' to print as the printers shows as a choice on anything I can print with. This is what I have for the Printer though as an application on my (and other PC's) PC:
Is this what you use?
TexasIndian wrote
#7 ArcherC8
Gonna do the same...the possible scenario with ChromebookS (3 granddaughters in house)
wasn't gonna be pretty, 3 Cat cords hanging loose from router, then plugged in WHEN used
in my office. Signal has been fine, much better now since new router install; staying wireless.
Good, keep everyone wireless.
TexasIndian wrote
#?? EitherOfYou
Is Cat-6 most current cord? Have Cat-7 or beyond arrived? Which is most efficient for me?
First, for 100Mbps from the modem, even a CAT 5 would work. I'll assume we're not talking a large distance from modem to router either? Usually the cable that comes with a router is the best to us, as is the one that comes with the modem (usually Yellow). Either one would be 'enough' to handle the connection. Only need to worry what you use from the router to a PC. Higher speeds on a PC connection from router (today most PC's Ethernet ports at 1Gbs ports and need a CAT 5e or CAT 6 but it is OVERKILL for 100Mbps connect which would work well with a CAT5 cable. 10Gbps speeds would need CAT 5e or 7 though.
Hope this helps.
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TexasIndian wrote
Feel free to check my updated status in few days...like y'all have nothing better to do
As I sit here now, my (knee-jerk) plan is to utilize my partially-used WalMart gift card
to buy longer Cat-6 to connect printer as described previously; re-connect the Cat-6
cord lying on floor behind desk from "Ethernet" labeled port on desktop to "LAN 1" of
router, assuming which port outta 8 makes no difference? (then I'll simply "disconnect"
the "TP-Link Wireless" icon on task bar?); NOT gonna mess with Chromebooks at all;
DOUBT will do anything with Smart Connect (unless/until notice whatever kinda issues?)
then I'll assign 2.4G to faraway/moving about devices: cells? laptop? 5G-streaming tv's?
If/when I do that, should I reassign teenaged grandkids laptops to solely 5G-2 Gaming??
(bored? check forum(s) for my next questions: tablets, wifi password, RoBlox/Fortnite/etc.)
NO! DON'T DO THAT!
See my replies above. You are unneedlessly complicating things!
DISCONNECTING is NOT the same as DISABLING!!! It (wireless adapter) will still be operational and taking power and loading, both possibly causing some problems.
Go to the NETWORK AND SHARING CENTER from the CONTROL PANEL:
Select 'Change adapter settings' (I've hidden my SSID, no need to show i), and as you can see I am connected via wireless.
Next DISABLE is the KEYWORD here... and assuming you want to go back to WIRED, DISABLE the WIRELESS device, that takes it out of the SYSTEM completely. DISCONNECTING it from an SSID keeps it running and as I said, draws power (especially if on a LAPTOP) and can confuse some programs even.
NOTE: If you INTEND to stay WIRELESS, then using the above screens, DISABLE the Ethernet connection, which I'll assume you've never done, no need to have it operating if you are using wireless.
A device enabled does use storage and processes are running for them, hence why you should DISABLE vs. DISCONNECT (although wired has no 'disconnect') and you DO NOT want to have BOTH connections ON at the same time.
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