@ceka 

I'm guessing there is probably some kind of error coding in the camera that is checking or waiting for the led and since it's physically removed now, it fails and therefore never proceeds?  Electrical circuits are tricky beasts and it's impossible to know without source code if it's a software boot check or hardware design.  There may be a circuit running through that led to even provide boot order - and without the circuit being closed (with the LED in place) it fails completely.  

Seems like an easier method would be to put tape over it inside hte camera, or such - instead of physically breaking the hardware.  Sounds like it's dead as it is.  Sorry to hear that.  :(

  @Gleep52 
Can you make a video on how you opened it whithout destroying it? almost broke mine taking it apart

Yeah that was my guess too on boot checks.. maybe a future project to /solder jump the pins and see if it boots.
Opened it again and it seems I have a broken cable, is this ground? could be this issue too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Im7EWzIdpkM
Tapo c120 led light off 2

Anyhow for more testings I will buy a couple more of this.
Easier would be in settings when it says LED off, doesn't matter if there's no internet connection, led should be off.
 

  @ceka nope - that big white one is your wifi.  Without that, you don't have wifi at all.  :(

  @Gleep52 

makes sense as to why I can't connect via wifi jjjj
 

  @Gleep52 

I have four C120s, all modified for close focus and used to record the inside of hedgehog feeding stations using IR light from the cameras.

To remove the camera from its case, use a stiff metal pry tool (a thin, flat-blade screwdriver also works, but the pry tool is preferable). Insert it about 4-5mm into the case and pry the camera body out.

NB: There's no need to remove the screw on the base securing the mount, as it has no connection to the camera internals.

As mentioned earlier, the focus adjustment is very sensitive. In my experience, turning the lens by about 1/8th turn anti-clockwise brings the focus to about 75mm in front of the lens.

NB: Don't remove the two screws holding the lens over the sensor. Doing so exposes the sensor to the risk of accidental damage and dust/grease spots.

To loosen the focus screw, first cut away as much of the glue as possible using a small, sharp craft knife. Then, if available, use a heat gun set to about 100C to warm the focus screw. You should find that the glue hold will loosen with a firm twist. Once it's loosened, it remains free but stiff, which is ideal for preventing accidental movement once the focus is reset.

Finding the optimal focus point is just a question of making very fine adjustments to the focus screw and then temporarily reassembling the two halves to check the result.

NB: The focus point for visible and IR light is often different, so adjust the focus using the appropriate light source.

If using the C120's infrared illumination, it's also worth setting the Viewing Distance to Near View (Indoor). This reduces the intensity of the IR LEDs to avoid overexposure with close subjects. Here's how to do that:

In the Tapo app, select the settings icon (nut) at the top right, then choose Video & Display> Night Vision. Select Night Boost On and set Viewing Distance to Near View (Indoor).

The C120s are great value for wildlife monitoring, and this simple mod extends that versatility to the inside of feeding and nesting boxes. I mount mine from the outside by drilling a 57mm hole in the box (Hole saw is best for this job) and inserting the camera so the face is flush with the inside of the feeder. I then seal the hole and camera in place with bathroom sealant on the outside of the feeder.

Mike