3-way HS210 smart switch with in a 4-way configuration
3-way HS210 smart switch with in a 4-way configuration
I have 2 hs210 switches at the beginning and end of a series of switches, with a dumb switch in the middle, with 2 black and 2 red wires and 1 ground. If i turn off the middle switch it cuts power to the last hs210. So you cant use 2 3-way switches in a 4way setup? Both hs210s are setup as a pair but if the middle switch is turned off, the light will not work.
First Switch
Second Switch
Third Switch
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@NorCalRicky I have a four way setup. At first I installed two HS210 switches but realized only one is required. So I have standard three way, a standard four-way and an HS210 on the circuit and they all work (although the HS210 does not detect when I turn on the light using the four way switch. So it is possible you just have to get the wires right.
I have a similar issue with a three way setup. When I replaced the one or the two HS210 switches with a standard three way switch that standard switch turns off power to the HS210. I need to figure out the correct wiring.
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@MilesO The wiring on a 4 way switch should be simple. it would be the middle switch with 2 hs210 on both ends of the circuit. Wiring a 4 way light switch
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@NorCalRicky how many of the three way switches will I need to control my lights. Now I have two three way and one four way
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I was originally wondering the same
You only need one HS210
You need to replace EITHER the One at either End (one will be the Line end and the other the Load end) - both have 3 wires (plus Neutral) .
You do not want the middle one, which has 4 wires (plus Neutral) - leave that one alone.
I actually put mine on the Line end (but don't think it matters)
Line to Black Terminal and the other two wires to the traveler terminals (this should be same on original switch)
In case of the Load end, it is the same, but this time the Load will be Black Terminal - again, just replicate your original switch
Installed in about 5 minutes - all tested functional - turns on or off manually with any of the three switches and turns on/off via Alexa (or other command)
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OK, I have the same question....or similar anyway. It is not clear to me from any of the literature or postings here how many HS210's I need to control a simple 4-way circuit. Actually it might not be considered "simple" as it is a single group of lights controlled from 7 different locations. However, it should still be simple in that it simply uses 2 standard 3-way switches, one on either end, with five 4-way switches in the middle. The concept is the same regardless of the number of control locations.....you replace one of the standard 3-way switches with a HS210. Right? Or, do you have to replace BOTH standard 3-way switches with HS210's....requiring two HS210's? This is unclear. I am seeing both methods suggested here. I would assume you only needed to replace one. But I tried that and it didn't work. The HS210 kept clicking the lights on and off at about a two second interval. I was sure I had it wired right, (I'm wiring it at the "line" end of the circuit where the power first enters) but tried changing the configuration.....still, same result. I tried the 3rd possibility and now nothing worked...I abandoned the project to do more research.....with no success...so now I'm here. The Kasa app actually makes this more complicated than it needs to be....or it's so simplified that I don't understand it. It does seem to maybe imply that I need two HS210's (or does it?). It's not like I don't have some electrical experience.....I actually wired this whole house 20 years ago including this 7 switch light circuit. A simple actual wiring diagram would be helpful.
Thanks,
dmd4home
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You only need one HS210 and it should definitely work if you connected it correctly.
The HS210 is no different than the 'normal' 3-pole switch that you are replacing - just that it has added capability to have it switch states by 'smart' control
In one state, it directs power to one traveller and in the other state to the other - exactly the same as the manual switch.
The rest of the switches, regardless of how many there are, then either provide a conduction path to the load or not.
Remember that each switch is not really an on-off per se, it simply switches the common from one pole to the other.
The critical part is ensuring that when you connect at the first node, where the line voltage is, that you indeed identify and connect the Line Wire to the Common terminal
So be sure that you definitely have the Live wire - it can be confusing when multiple black wires are in play.
(Or if at the Load end, ensure the Load is connected to the Common)
Here's a good explanation/diagram of how the switch configurations direct current to the load - or not,
(I took this from a wikiwand article - it won't let me post the link here but search on wikiwand and mutiway switching)
That has only one intermediate (middle) 4-way switch but it is the same regardless of how many are used.
But just focus on the initial 3-way one (or the last one) in the chain, either of which is the one connected directly to line voltage and the one you would replace with the HS210
Edited - I believe the HS210 HAS to go at the Line End so that it maintains a constant power supply for the Circuitry via the Common and Neutral wires.
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dmd4home wrote
......I could turn the lights off with the app, but when I tried to turn them back on, the app said: "Device Unreachable, Your device may be powered off or out of network range".
@dmd4home That suggests that you do not have the correct (constant) line and neutral connected to the appropriate terminals - it seems like you have it powered with switches in a certain configuration and when you switch the output state of the HS210 you are losing power to the device and therefor also the Wifi - regardless of what the outputs are doing, it must maintain line and neutral to the device in order to have the WiFi circuit active.
(Incidentally I realized as I was writing that, I erred in saying it could go at either end - for the reason stated it HAS to go at the Line end)
You MUST have constant Line Power to the Black Terminal (on the side) and the Neutral White wire connected
Just connect those two and leave the two traveler terminals disconnected, then validate with a voltage tester that you have line power regardless of what your other switches are doing.
Regarding the TPLink WiFi signal on your phone - that is present when the device is in AP mode - pairing mode - and is used to set up the device with your app where you will then input your SSID/P/W that you wish to use to connect to the device.
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