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Can I connect a HS210 to the "line side" with a Treatlife 3 way dimmer connected to the "load side"?
Is the TreatLife 3 way dimmer compatible with the HS210?
Will the HS210 supply the load to operate wifi/led indicators in the Treatlife 3 way dimmer?
I am trying to install a TreatLife 3 way dimmer but I can't because it connects to the "load" not the "line".
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@surfinmaverick If you are using a Treatlife 3 way dimmer, just connect it the same way as per indicated in the HS210 Tutorial but substituting the T'Life device
i.e. just ensure you are connecting at the Line Switch box end (not the load end) - then just have a std 'dumb' switch in the load switchbox
It really makes no sense to mix technologies on the same circuit - T'Life uses Tuya while TPLink have their own protocol
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Thank you for the response. I am just replacing the old dimmer with the Treatlife 3-way dimmer. Unfortunately, it happens to be the "load box end". I would not want the dimmer on the "line box end". The "line box end" switch is out of the way and is seldom used.
I noticed on Youtube when two tp-link switches are installed that both switches have power and they can turn the light off and on before they are even programmed. Clearly the "line box end" switch is propagating power to the "load end box" switch. If this is an electrical standard, then I do not need to buy a Treatlife 3-way switch. I have smart 3-way Kasa switches. The 3-way Kasa would be installed on the "line box end". I am thinking the Kasa switch can be used to propagate power to the Treatlife dimmer switch. Each in turn will electrically be able turn the light off and on in the same manner non-smart switches in a 3-way circuit would.
In this way I would be able to program each switch separately. Each one would not need to know about each other. I would disable Alexa from controlling the Kasa 3-way switch. The Tuya protocol and the Tp-link proprietary protocol would not be an issue.
So, the question is are the 3-way Treatlife dimmer and the 3-way Kasa Switch electrically compatible and will they work in the way I described above?
Kind Regards,
Jeff
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Electrically, a three-way is just that, whether it is 'smart' or dumb' - each is just a changeover switch that direct power from its common to either of the two traveler positions.
surfinmaverick wrote
So, the question is are the 3-way Treatlife dimmer and the 3-way Kasa Switch electrically compatible and will they work in the way I described above?
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All I can tell you is what I already stated in my last post - whether a switch is Smart or Dumb, electrically as a 3-way, it does exactly the same thing directing power from the common to EITHER of the two traveler terminals, Whether that 'flip' is done by a 'dumb' switch or a smart switch, makes no difference.
I have no first-hand knowledge of the Treatlife 3-way dimmer switch but did see this important detail on the Amazon listing
So fundamentally that is saying that the TreatLife cannot be used in the load position
Honestly, if you never/rarely use the line side switch anyway, just re-wire it so it passes through directly to the other switch (without actually switching anything)
If you want control at that location, you can install a simple HS200 that has no load connected but you use it only as a control function - but that would only be necessary if you want to be able to use it manually - if using Alexa anyway, you don't even need that.
Best plan if you can delay a couple of months is to wait for the release of the Kasa 3-way (however its unclear at this point if it will ALSO be required to be located at the line end or the load end - I suspect it will be the same, connect to line end)
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I need to find a dimmer switch that can works on the "load end".
Bethel, that was an amazing find.
Have a great day!
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surfinmaverick wrote
I need to find a dimmer switch that can works on the "load end".
@surfinmaverick - it sounds like you are using Alexa anyway - does it really matter that much if the dimmer component is located physically a bit out of the way? (that's not intended to be a criticism, just offering you further thought on the notion)
To be candid, I pretty NEVER adjust my dimming levels manually (only by voice command, or from pre-set levels in scenes) although I will occasionally turn on/off with the switch - but you can still do that even with the dimmer with switch, from either the Smart OR the Dumb end.
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Good news, as you suspected I was easily able to modify the 3-way circuit so that the dimmer is on the "line end". Now the dimmer switch is working.
I would not be able to using the dummy side anyway because a neutral wire is not supplied.
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