note that the model in the post is listed as the HS210 kit because the HS230 kit (dimming 3-way) is not an available option yet. Thanks!

  @erroberts1 Three things.

1. For curcuit two: Have you tried using the reset button on the secondary dimmer?  I know that hitting the paddle twice is a setting that can be configured, so maybe resetting the device back to factory will resolve that.  Just a thought.

2. You mentioned something about a lack of availability for the KS230Kit.  Not sure what you mean by that as I have already installed one and have another to install today.

3. Is your "dumb" switch a dimmer?  If so, how does the "dumb" dimmer affect the dimming on the Kasa switches and the app?  If not, does the switch simply respect the last dimming setting from the Kasa?

  @erroberts1 It is clearly stated that the KS230 does NOT work in 4-way configuration, only 3-way (two switches ONLY - at Line and Load) 

This is fundamental in the way the kit has been designed, so you simply cannot make it work in a 4-way, in the sense that the 'middle' switch will work properly to control the light on/off. 

The only way to make your kit work properly is to jumper the wiring in the 4-way box, (linking through the respective Travelers and Neutral) making the switch in that location non-operable. (or you can wire up the 4-way switch, but it must be configured for one position to 'pass through' exactly T1 -T1 and T2-T2 in one switch position, then must not be physically toggled - safer fro operation perspective to just jumper the wires with wire nuts in the box and leave switch unconnected or replaced with a blank panel) 

  @DEcosse 

Where does it say that it does NOT work in a 4-way.  Its not mentioned on the box nor the instruction sheet!  Video's I've seen show the HS210 kit working in a 4-way so whats the limitation on the HS230?

I am also trying to get setup in a 4-way. Initially I was able to get the units working until I flipped the switch on the 4-way and the Main unit immediately started flashing red again and nothing I have tried since can get it back working.  I even trying swapping the travelers on the remote unit.

  @Rusalka68 - HS210 is a completely different animal and can as you point out be used in a 4-way config. But the KS230 cannot, duw to the added complexity of the dimmer circuit which only outputs on the T2 line; the T1 line keeps the Satellite switch powered. But they cannot be flipped at the Satellite switch and that is what happens when you add an intermediate switch as in a 4-way circuit. 

Additionally there are inferred statements whereby it clearly states can control from TWO switch locations 

And if you understand the current flow through the intermediate switch in 4-way circuit, you recognize that when the switch is toggled it violates the well-documented statement in the installation documentation that says 

It simply is not possible to have an intermediate switch (4 way config) work with this particular hardware. 

  @DEcosse 

Adding a comment here, because I was pulling my hair out and not finding anything on the Internet with how this can be done specifically

I have Kasa HS230. I bought two of the version 1.0 kits. 

I was able to make this work on a four way, but it does require using one main and 2 satellites. So you’re going to buy two kits and have an extra main that is worthless at the end of the day. 

Main gets wired up on the line side as normal.

The satellite on the other three way switch gets wired up as normal. 

In the middle, where I have four wires coming in for my dumb four way switch I wired up an additional satellite. In my installation, my four-way travelers coming into that four way switch were white and red (4 wires total with a white and red coming from each 3-way switch). I have the whites both connected to the Traveler 1 and reds both connected to Traveler 2/load. Red and white Colors match the other Traveler 1 and 2 on the Main and other satellite. 

Everything works perfectly.

4wayman wrote

  @DEcosse 

 

 

Everything works perfectly.

  @4wayman Does operating the middle satellite switch toggle light on/off? Does the dimmer control on that middle position dim the light (when it's on) and is this the same when the main switch is in either position? And same for the end switch? How does it affect things if you dim the light all the way to minimum using the middle switch control? 
If it all indeed works, then great find (I say find but really sounds like you developed this idea yourself, so well done) 

Although of course that is a quite expensive option. 

  @4wayman 

I built a test rig and tried @4wayman method with the V2.8 dimmers.  Alas it does not work as traveler1/load is not a common wire on the newer remotes.  I tried connecting load to traveler 1 but that does not work either.

If @4wayman replies that dimming works on all switches then I will buy the V1.8 and put that on my test rig before I get into taking my current switches off..

Otherwise, my current intent is to convert my 4-way into a two switch 3-way and then put wire in a standard switch in (pulling wire from another circuit in my 4-gang box) with no load to act a a trigger in smart actions.

  @TosaKerry 

I can confirm this works. Tried the 4wayman suggestion and dimming works from all locations, including the "extra" satellites. KS230 v1.8. 
 

Further, you don't need to waste the main dimmer on the extra satellite you purchase, as it can be used in a single location application. Connect line, neutral, & ground as usual, then connect load to traveler 2. Don't connect anything to traveler 1.

Short version:  I just want to confirm that I got a 4-way working as @4wayman describes (and can control/dim from three locations).

Long version: 

-- How I got here:   I originally purchased V1 of the KS230 and had it working in a 4-way setup with a dumb switch in the middle.  After about two months, the primary KS230 V1 switch failed (I think during a s/w upgrade) and I couldn't connect to it again.  So, I purchased a new KS230 and figured V2 was better - never saw the warning that it wouldn't work in a 4-way config (that needs to be more prominent).

So, I bumbled my way through replacing KS230 V1 with KS230 V2 (leaving the dumb switch in the middle).  Things didn't work - similar to what eeroberts1 described as his "circuit one" at the top of this thread.

So, based on @4wayman feedback, I decided to take my KS230 V1 secondary switch and put it between the KS230 V2 Primary & secondary switches.  Something like the following:

LINE -- > KS230 V2 Primary --> KS230 V1 Secondary --> KS230 V2 Secondary --> LOAD

I wired the middle (V1 secondary) similar to how @4wayman described in his 2022-12-10 11:03:20 post (i.e., red wires together, white wires together, in my case they were red/black).  Initially , things didn't work - lights never came on.   In a last ditch effort, I swapped the red/black sets of wires to the on the KS230 V1 Secondary posts (keeping the reds/blacks together, just switched to opposite posts).  After that swap, things started to work perfectly.  

Closing comments:  I really wish that tp-link would sell (and officially support) a 4-way solution.  At a minimum, they need to make it more prominent that the KS230 officially doesn't work in a 4-way config.  But, it appears that a number of us have figured out how to get things working in a 4-way config.  I really like that I can control/dim from three locations in this 4-way config.