KS230Kit v2 Wiring Setup and FAQs
The Basic Functions of KS230KIT (US) 2.0 are basically the same as those of V1. It supports functions such as light on, light off, light dimming, long press, remote control, Alexa/Google home voice control, IFTTT, SmartThings, etc.
The main difference is that KS230Kit V2 has optimized the wiring, so the KS230 no longer has to distinguish between the two traveler wires.
Before handling any wires, ensure that the electricity to the wall switch is disabled at the breaker by testing the wires in the box with a voltmeter.
The 2(two) Traveler wires are opposite each other with matching color screws. The remaining wire is Line/Load wire. Line wire is also known as Live or Hot wire. Line and load wires are located separately in two wall boxes. The Line Wire will be located in the wall box with the main dimmer unit, and the load wire will be in the wall box with the satellite dimmer switch.
Disconnect all wires from the two dumb switches one at a time, and with the help of labels, connect them to the new switches as below.
Q1: What are the major differences between the KS230 Version 1.0 and 2.0?
A: The main difference is that KS230Kit V2 has optimized the wiring, so the KS230 does not have to distinguish between the two traveler wires. The load wire on the satellite unit was also updated with its own connection, to make the installation easier to understand.
You can learn more about the differences between the two versions by reading our community forum post on the topic.
Q2: Do I need an electrician probe or voltmeter to identify the line and load wires?
A: Yes. The Main KS230 must be installed with the live wire, if not, then the smart switch function won’t work. Incorrect wiring can also damage the switch, so it is very important to identify the wires correctly. Even if you believe you can identify the wires based on the sheathes, some electricians will use existing wires for new applications. NEVER assume a wire is not conducting electricity, always verify with the correct tools and tests.
Q3: What's the dimmer type of the main KS230?
A: The dimmer type of the Main KS230 is identical to the HS220 which belongs to Incandescent/Halogen (forward phase control), based on TRIAC.
Note: HS220 supports dimmable Incandescent and LED lights based on forward-phase control (TRIAC based), and does not support bulbs based on PWM (pulse width modulation) and ELV (electronic low voltage) dimming.
Q4: Can I use the main KS230 with the ordinary three-way Dimmer or another non-smart three-way dimmer?
A: Not in this case, the KS230 must be used in a kit. The dimming function of the KS230 will not take function properly with other switch/dimmers. Also, the KS230 will be sold in a kit, it is recommended to use the KS230kit in the same three-way circuit.
Q5: Can I use the KS230kit with a four-way switch?
A: Not in this case, the KS230 kit is designed for the three-way circuit. The KS230 will not function with a four-way switch.
Q6: What should I do if the LED of the Main KS230 does not light up after the first installation?
A: Please check whether you have connected the Neutral Wire to the Main KS230.
Please check whether you have installed the KS230 in the correct live wire end.
Q7: What should I do if the Main KS230 can not control/dim the light at all after the first installation?
A: Double-Check the Wiring Configuration
Check that all of the wires are correct. Give them a light tug while holding the wire nut to ensure they are secure.
Note: Incorrect wiring may damage the Kasa Smart 3-way Switches.
Q8: Main KS230 makes a small noise, will it affect the use?
A: KS230 complies with industry safety standards. It is normal to have little noise during use (only those close to the switch can hear the noise), noise does not affect the normal use of KS230 and would not cause any safety issue or malfunction.
Q9: Does the KS230 supports the 'Double Tap' Smart dimmer configuration?
A: No, the KS230 doesn't support the Double Tap function, and only supports the 'single tap' and 'long press' operations. This should eliminate any delay that was experienced with the V1 that occurred as a result of the switch waiting for a second input.