Just an update, today I replaced this HS-210 with a new one and same issue exists. I also changed out the other "dumb" 3-way switch thinking it may be the issue. Still nothing.

I also tested the voltage at the HS210 and got a reading of 123v on the load line and one traveler. Other traveler read zero volts while switch was off and 123 when switch was on.

everything about the switches and lights are functioning like they're supposed to other than the false "off" indication on the switch and in the app. 😕

@Carl 

Hi Carl, thanks for the response. I have tried the manual switch in both positions with no luck. I'm positive that the HS-210 is connected on the power side. It's a 3 gain box and The common wire is coming from the same pigtail of wires that my other 2 HS-210s are using and they both function properly.

I have also checked all of the wiring and everything is tight on both switches. I even tried switching the 2 traveler wires on the HS-210 (even though I'm pretty sure they can both be on either of the traveler connectors, is that correct?).

Any other suggestions? Thanks again!

@Carl 

ok, today I tried again leaving the manual switch in the on position and then operating the HS-210 and that worked. The indicator on the switch and in the app are functioning properly now.

I am confused now though. The HS-210 has to be hooked up on the power side of the circuit. The black wire going to the common screw of all 3 HS-210s is coming from the same pigtail off of a single power wire coming into the box. Also, when tested with a voltage meter, this wire is hot regardless of the position of the switch.

This has me confused on why I should have to leave the manual switch in the on position for the HS-210 to function properly?

Thanks again!

@Carl 

Hopefully this picture makes since. If not let me know.

Here is a photo and diagram of the way these 3 HS-210s are wired.

All 3 switched "common" connector is connected from the same pigtailed power wire coming from the breaker panel.

All 3 switches nuetral and ground wires are pigtailed into the existing wires that were already there.

Each switch has 2 traveler wires that run from the HS-210s to the corespnding manual (dumb) switch.

This is why I can't understand why 2 of them are operating properly and 1 (the middle one) is not.

Anyone else have any suggestions?

@Adam1234 

Here is a figure that should help show why the non smart switch would need to remain powered on. It usually comes down to wiring for needing the manual switch to remain on.

@Tony 

Hi Tony,

Thanks for the reply and for the diagrams. Here's my issue. In both of the incorrectly wired diagrams you provided the lights would not function properly. In my situation the lights function perfectly fine. I can turn them off and on from both switches regardless of the position of the other switch. Meaning they have to be wired correctly, right?

The only thing that is not functioning properly is the status indicator on the HS-210. It recognizes the lights as being off even when they are on and shining bright. This is where the position of the manual switch comes in to play. As long as the manual switch is in the "up" position then the HS-210 will recognize the correct status of the lights.

This is why I'm confused. If it were in fact a wiring issue then the lights wouldn't turn on and off like they should, correct?

Thanks again and looking forward to any other suggestions.