AC1750 max speed 381Mb need a faster model
AC1750 max speed 381Mb need a faster model
I'm looking to upgrade my wireless router because the max thru put is around 381Mb via cat6. Any recommendations? I'm currently using an ac1750 C7 and it can't handle 500Mb from modem. Please note that this model is not listed in the drop down listed above so please ignore all that.
- Copy Link
- Subscribe
- Bookmark
- Report Inappropriate Content
grh1944 wrote
I'm looking to upgrade my wireless router because the max thru put is around 381Mb via cat6. Any recommendations? I'm currently using an ac1750 C7 and it can't handle 500Mb from modem. Please note that this model is not listed in the drop down listed above so please ignore all that.
I assume this is your Router, https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-c7/#specifications
It can handle more than you think:
AC1750
5 GHz: 1300 Mbps (802.11ac)
2.4 GHz: 450 Mbps (802.11n)
Ethernet Ports | 1× Gigabit WAN Port |
---|
There are 2 other places that could be the restriction.
- ISP Service and Modem capability
- PC/Device Ethernet adapter capability
To test this, what do you get on a DIRECT CONNECT PC to Modem? 500+Mbps? If so, you could have a cable problem? Have you tired different CAT6 cables?
Maybe a faulty Router LAN port, have you tried all of them?
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Thanks for the reply. Yes that is the router. I tested direct connection to modem and got ~500Mb. Also tested the other cable that connects the modem to the router. Tried all the ports, etc. I checked the connections between two lan pc's using iperf and I get good connection speeds. I tried various different things on the router to no avail. I will get another router tomorrow if the present router doesn't fix itself after restoring it to default settings. It just seems strange to me.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
A few things to try:
- Turn off QoS
- Enable IPv6
- Change the NAT
- Turn off Parental controls
- Ensure firmware is up to date
- Ensure the Ethernet cables are not running parallel to each other or rolled in a coil.
- May want to try a factory reset.
- Turn off VPN
- Remove any USB devices
- Turn off security
You may need some of those options, but as a test, it may indicate the cause. Be sure to power cycle the router as some items do not take affect until you do so.
Let us know what you find.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Is this a NEW setup? Did you switch out another router?
Have you tried powering everything OFF and then connected modem, router, devices in order, that is powering up the modem, then router, and lastly the devices?
If you had a previous router, is the C7 using the same IP Address and SSID and P/W (last two makes no difference to an Ehternet Connection). and in that case, FORGET the NETWORK.
What OS and how are you testing the speed? That is the Mbps the router sends to the device. Connection Speed is different than the throughput speed which iPerf probably shows.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Nope same router. New modem though. I reset the router to default. It seems like it's sluggish and struggling. Straight through the modem it's starts the download with a bank and quickly levels off at 500. I also plugged a Cisco SG2020 into the modem and my PC gets 500Mb. I guess it's time to get a new wifi router. Darn shame since this is only 2 years old. Thought it would last longer.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
grh1944 wrote
Nope same router. New modem though. I reset the router to default. It seems like it's sluggish and struggling. Straight through the modem it's starts the download with a bank and quickly levels off at 500. I also plugged a Cisco SG2020 into the modem and my PC gets 500Mb. I guess it's time to get a new wifi router. Darn shame since this is only 2 years old. Thought it would last longer.
I am not sure as you might have not followed the correct ways to change modem to router connections.
Normally, when you change the modem and/or router, you don't 'hot plug' them. Modems if NOT powered off retain the MAC Address of the device they were last connected too. Replace the connection to them to something else and they don't communicate 'well' with the new device.
Usually one would do the following steps when change either the modem or the device connected to it:
- Power both units OFF
- Power up the Modem first
- Wait for it to completely come up. Most modems have LEDs/lights and wait for the Interet light to come on
- Then power up the Router (normally the devices connected to the router should also be off but in most cases, this is not required)
- When the Router is fully up, then test the speed.
Even IF this fails (still slow), there is another way to see if it is the Router or not.
You said the PC directly to the Modem works at 500Mbps, right? Well then you can make the Router look like the PC to the Modem. All you need do is replicate the PC's MAC Address in the Router so it looks like the PC to the Modem.
If on Windows, open a CMD prompt and enter IPCONFIG /ALL and look at the Physical Address of the Network Adapter. That is the MAC Address.
Now you really need to use the Browser Interface here, Tether will not allow you to do this it looks like. If you do want to start with Tether, go to Tool on the lower right, then Advanced Settings. There is a link that will open up a browser and the Router GUI. You'll need to enter the sign-in credentials. Then go to Advanced and Network, and then Internet. At the bottom you should see MAC Clone. Select Clone Current Computer MAC Address. It should pick up your PC, it may not, but pick up the phone's MAC Address. If so, use the Custom setting to set it to the PC. Also, if you do this via a Browser on the PC, that is go to the IP Address of the router (that Tether showed you) and sign-in and do the same steps it will pick up the PC's MAC address.
Now TEST. If it is Still slow, try changing cables, first PC to router. Test, fails, NOW using the same PC to Router cable, move that cable to the Modem (you can hot plug it at this point) and test. Passes, then it might be the router.
At this point, I'd do a complete RESET of the router.
On the Router GUI go to Advanced, System Tools, and Backup and Restore. There you should see Factory Default Restore, use the FIRST choice, the Restore, NOT the Factory Restore.
Now using a PC (the wired one), do the test. Works, some setting you had was the culprit, not the router. Continue changing your settings (DO NOT restore a backup of the settings) a few at a time and test. Fails, reset the ones you just changed and do them individually and test. Soon you should find the problematic one.
If that DID NOT solve the problem, seems like a router problem, and I'd contact Support directly.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
@IrvSp I did use that boot order when restarting the modem and router.
Your second ifix will not do as I am not willing to spoof mac addresses as I do not believe it will make any difference. Why would one mac get preference over another on a completely reset router? If you believe it to be a firmware issue then wouldn't it be reasonable to find a way to roll back?
EDIT: I've already swapped out the cables and did a factory restore.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
grh1944 wrote
@IrvSp I did use that boot order when restarting the modem and router.
Your second ifix will not do as I am not willing to spoof mac addresses as I do not believe it will make any difference.
EDIT: I've already swapped out the cables and did a factory restore.
Changing the router MAC Address will ensure it isn't a MODEM problem. There is no harm in doing this other than the modem thinks it is seeing the PC. When it does, it 'should' work just like you plugged the PC into the modem.
The reason to do this IS to determine IF the router is the problem or not?
Once done you can just change it back. Will probably need a reboot of the modem though to make it happen.
This is something that is done often when there is an Internet problem for debug purposes.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
grh1944 wrote
If you believe it to be a firmware issue then wouldn't it be reasonable to find a way to roll back?
EDIT: I've already swapped out the cables and did a factory restore.
Nope, can't Rollback F/W more than likely (you can try if you want). TP-Link F/W has a check to see if it will back-level the F/W (usually) and stop you from doing that.
Besides, in this specific case, I'd think many others would hit it as well.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Information
Helpful: 0
Views: 4165
Replies: 15
Voters 0
No one has voted for it yet.