HS220 reverse wiring
HS220 reverse wiring
I have followed the directions to connect up the switch. Only one way can I get the device to power on (using the lead line in the load connection) and all other ways the device will not power up. I believe doing this has made it where the functionality will not work. No dimmer, no on off, nothing. Please help me figure out what I am doing wrong
Ground is to copper
Neutral is to white bundle
Lead won't power on if in lead and load is in load
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Updated :
Please also make sure the dimmable LED is compatible with a TRIAC dimmer or forward-phase-control type of dimming, HS220 doesn’t support lamps based on PWM(pulse width module) or ELV(electronic low voltage)dimming. Please check this FAQ for more details.
Hello @DDON
May I know can you confirm the Line wire in the wall is the energized wire? The wiring in the wall is for one gang or two gang switches?
https://www.tp-link.com/support/download/hs220/#video
As the setup video, the energized wire in the wall should be connected to the Line wire of HS220. This can not be reversed.
• WHITE wire on switch to NEUTRAL wire.
• GREEN wire on switch to green/bare copper GROUND wire.
• Two Screws on the right side of the switch:
LINE screw (Black Screw) must be connected to LINE wire* energized wire*
LOAD screw (Red Screw) must be connected to LOAD wire
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Several ways.. Ohm meter shows has power, shocked myself because breaker was turned back on too soon, and bypassing the switch causes the light to go on and bypassing and connecting it to the relay wire causes the remaining lights to function.
You say this can't be done... But it's happening
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Hello @DDON
Kindly be careful of electric shock when test the wires.
To isolate if it's related to the wiring or the dimmable bulb, you could also try a different location to install the switch.
Make sure the dimmable bulb is compatible with the TRIAC dimmer (check with bulb support or check the manual of the bulb)
If still the same, I recommend reaching a professional electrician to take a close look at the wiring in your house.
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Even if the wiring is bad or poor the unit should still power on when correctly connecting the cables. At this point we are speaking of just the unit powering on and not its functionalities. It will only turn on if I incorrectly connect them but won't function . What would be the cause of this?
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@DDON This does sound lke a wiring issue.
It sounds as if the existing switching may be on the neutral side of the circuit. With the hot wire going to the light(s) first.
This can cause all sorts of strange issues with smart switches and cause them to not function properly or at all, but would not effect the functionality of a dumb switch.
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Then can you explain why it will only power up when neutral is connected and line is connected to load terminal?
Even with mismatched wiring I would expect it to turn on with neutral in the bundle and line connected to line terminal
And can you tell me if there is an easy solution (like going to the light and moving wires)?
Really does not make sense to hire an electrician for such a small thing
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Lets take a step back.
It sounds as if you have a multimeter you can use to verify the wires inside the box?
With the black probe to to your ground, confirm the only other wire that shows voltage is the "line" wire.
If no wires show voltage to ground then I suspect you have an improper (missing) ground.
Once you confirm which wire shows voltage to ground remove all the light bulbs from the fixture(s) and recheck if that wire still shows voltage. Then we can go from there.
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I do have a multi meter
I have tested every wire to ground (including each neutral) and only 1 wire is hot.
When you say remove all light bulbs and retest, should I direct connect the line and load while testing this?
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Leave all the wires disconnected when testing to ground. This way no part of the switch is in equation and only the wires coming out of the wall.
By removing ALL the bulbs you are essentially breaking that part of the circuit and it will tell you if that "hot" wire runs directly to the switch location or through the lights then to the switch location.
Much safer than physically touching the "hot" wire to the the ground (please don't do this) to see if the breaker trips, sparks, potentially shocks you, or the lights come on.
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