KS230 3 Way Dimmer Secondary Switch not working
Just got the new KS230 3 Way Dimmers. I purchased 2 sets first set the secondary switch will not work. Second set the main switch will not connect to the app. No TPlink appears. Spent the whole day trying different configurations to no sucess. I have other TP Link / Kasa switches throughout with no issues.
Has anyone had these issues.
- Copy Link
- Subscribe
- Bookmark
- Report Inappropriate Content
2022/09 Update
*For KS230 Kit V2:
KS230Kit V2 has optimized on the wiring with no need for distinguishing the Traveler wires , please refer to FAQ here for wiring instructions:
How to Install My Kasa Smart 3-Way Dimmer Switches (KS230 KIT V2)
Note: hardware version is on the back of your KS230 unit.
*For KS230 Kit V1 :
If you met similar problem that ' the satellite switch does not work properly':
1. Make sure to use KS230s as a KIT not with an ordinary or non- smart three-way switch.
Can I use the main KS230 with an generic or standard three-way Dimmer? Please check explanation here.
2. If Satellite KS230 has No Led/White Ring led and Doesn't Dim, but Main KS230 works fine:
-Check the Common Wire(Load Wire) on Satellite Switch
-Check if TR1 on Main switch is incorrectly connected to TR2 on Satellite
Unlike the ordinary 3-way switches, traveler wires on KS230 have sequence. If you label the Red traveler in main box as TR1, then label the Red traveler in satellite box also as TR1 , if that is incorrect, Satellite Switch may not work properly.
Three-way Dimmer Switch Installation Video
TR1 (traveler1) can be Red/Black or other colors, but try to keep TR1 on main switch and TR1 on satellite switch the same color, same for TR2.
(After carefully checking wires, you found TR1 & TR2 are misconnected, try to swap TR1 and TR2 on the Satellite )
Other Topics: [Fix ] KS230 Main Flashing Red, Satellite has No Power, both main and satellite KS230 can NOT control the light.
Refer to thread here KS230: blinking red, correctly wired 517622
Example
- Identify Common Wire (could be a Live/Load): Locate the wire that’s connected to a Different Color screw (usually BLACK screw) on old 3-way switch
Neutral Wire: normally white or a bundle of white wires secured with a wire nut.
Traveler Wires: the remaining 2 wires(typically one black and one red) travelers are on the Same Color screws opposite to each other on old 3-way switch
Note: 1. KS230kit traveler wires have sequence. If you label the Red traveler in main box as TR1, then label the Red traveler in satellite box also as TR1. That means we need try to keep TR1 on main switch and TR1 on satellite switch the same color, same for TR2.
2. Do not mix up travelers coming the two junction boxes.
Ground Wire: normally Green/Copper
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If the concern persists, please reach our local customer service to get help or start the RMA process
Be sure to provide the following information in the email:
0. The hardware version of our KS230 Kit
1. the photo of wiring of KS230KIT (note the Main and Satellite switch)
2. the photo of wiring of Old- 3 way Kit if you kept any of that
3. the LED status on KS230KIT (Wifi Led on the main KS230 , Ring or White circle Led on main & satellite KS230 )
4. Can you manually turn on/off the main KS230?
Can you manually turn on/ off the satellite KS230?
5. Wattage of the controlled lamp /bulb
6. Have you ever found the electrical wiring of main/satellite KS230 was wrong with circuit beaker 'ON' , e.g. Load accidentally or wrongly connected to Neutral wire of Satellite switch before?
* This post will be marked as the solution to this post in order for forum users to find this information in full easily and to then provide additional feedback *
Thank you.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Yes, I have had the same problem. Secondary units do not work. I have tried this with 2 different KS230 KIT sets. The only time I did get 1 main switch from one of the sets working was with a dumb 3-way switch at the other end, but the functions of the dumb switch did not all work (could turn off the lights from the dumb 3-way switch but could not turn them back on). And, after messing with these KS230 KIT sets for many, many, many hours trying to get them to work, now the main switches do not work.
I put the dumb 3-way switches (only 1 of them has the dimmer control) back and everything works perfectly, so I know it is not my wiring.
In another lighting area, I installed the tp-link 3-way switch set that is not dimmable with no problems... I did notice that on the setup for that set the app prompts for the main switch and then prompts for the secondary switch... that doesn't happen with the 3-way dimmable sets... the app just prompts for the main switch and then setup is done. Also... both switches in the non-dimmable set have a neutral wire. The secondary switch in the 3-way dimmable sets do not have a neutral wire.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
@LarBear Irritates me they would release it like this, but at least I'm not going to waste anymore time trying to figure this out. I also tried to use the dummy switch as a secondary which seemed to get the master to work like you said, but thats not what I'm looking for. Might go with no dimmer for one of my setups not sure with the other one yet. Thanks for your help.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
2022/09 Update
*For KS230 Kit V2:
KS230Kit V2 has optimized on the wiring with no need for distinguishing the Traveler wires , please refer to FAQ here for wiring instructions:
How to Install My Kasa Smart 3-Way Dimmer Switches (KS230 KIT V2)
Note: hardware version is on the back of your KS230 unit.
*For KS230 Kit V1 :
If you met similar problem that ' the satellite switch does not work properly':
1. Make sure to use KS230s as a KIT not with an ordinary or non- smart three-way switch.
Can I use the main KS230 with an generic or standard three-way Dimmer? Please check explanation here.
2. If Satellite KS230 has No Led/White Ring led and Doesn't Dim, but Main KS230 works fine:
-Check the Common Wire(Load Wire) on Satellite Switch
-Check if TR1 on Main switch is incorrectly connected to TR2 on Satellite
Unlike the ordinary 3-way switches, traveler wires on KS230 have sequence. If you label the Red traveler in main box as TR1, then label the Red traveler in satellite box also as TR1 , if that is incorrect, Satellite Switch may not work properly.
Three-way Dimmer Switch Installation Video
TR1 (traveler1) can be Red/Black or other colors, but try to keep TR1 on main switch and TR1 on satellite switch the same color, same for TR2.
(After carefully checking wires, you found TR1 & TR2 are misconnected, try to swap TR1 and TR2 on the Satellite )
Other Topics: [Fix ] KS230 Main Flashing Red, Satellite has No Power, both main and satellite KS230 can NOT control the light.
Refer to thread here KS230: blinking red, correctly wired 517622
Example
- Identify Common Wire (could be a Live/Load): Locate the wire that’s connected to a Different Color screw (usually BLACK screw) on old 3-way switch
Neutral Wire: normally white or a bundle of white wires secured with a wire nut.
Traveler Wires: the remaining 2 wires(typically one black and one red) travelers are on the Same Color screws opposite to each other on old 3-way switch
Note: 1. KS230kit traveler wires have sequence. If you label the Red traveler in main box as TR1, then label the Red traveler in satellite box also as TR1. That means we need try to keep TR1 on main switch and TR1 on satellite switch the same color, same for TR2.
2. Do not mix up travelers coming the two junction boxes.
Ground Wire: normally Green/Copper
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If the concern persists, please reach our local customer service to get help or start the RMA process
Be sure to provide the following information in the email:
0. The hardware version of our KS230 Kit
1. the photo of wiring of KS230KIT (note the Main and Satellite switch)
2. the photo of wiring of Old- 3 way Kit if you kept any of that
3. the LED status on KS230KIT (Wifi Led on the main KS230 , Ring or White circle Led on main & satellite KS230 )
4. Can you manually turn on/off the main KS230?
Can you manually turn on/ off the satellite KS230?
5. Wattage of the controlled lamp /bulb
6. Have you ever found the electrical wiring of main/satellite KS230 was wrong with circuit beaker 'ON' , e.g. Load accidentally or wrongly connected to Neutral wire of Satellite switch before?
* This post will be marked as the solution to this post in order for forum users to find this information in full easily and to then provide additional feedback *
Thank you.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
The secondary switch in the 3-way dimmer does not need to be added/synced with your home automation system. Only the primary needs to be synced. The secondary is essentially a load remote.
Unlike the 3-way switch "Kit", the 3-way dimmer actually is a kit and it must be used as a kit. You can't use the 3-way dimming primary with a dumb 3-way switch. I don't even think you can use it with a dumb 3-way dimmer, though I have not tried and I don't know if I'd feel saving doing so as the electronics in the primary were not intended for it.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Hi, I have exactly the same problem, and I have triple checked my wiring with multi-meter. Main unit works fine, can be controlled with phone, got the firmware update. The satellite switch always appear to be in the off-mode (white ring light on), but pressing it has no effect whatsoever. Can you please include me as well in the support case?
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Fortunately, I had a 3rd KS230 Kit and decided to try that set with the same wiring setup. That set worked perfectly the first time! It also received a firmware update as soon as it was powered on.
I set up an exchange with Amazon to send the 2 non-working kits back for new ones.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Hello @NiklasE Thank you for the case description, we will need some photos with the wiring to help sort out the issue, I created a support email for you, please check your inbox, thank you.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
I'll do you all one better. After messing around after rewiring my circuit I was able to get both master and slave working. I added the master to the Kasa app performed the update and was in love with the switch for twelve hrs. When I woke up the slave switch is no longer working. The master works fine, it is in the Kasa app, both alexa and home assistant can perform their automations. The slave no longer will controll the light, its ring light is very dim and always on regardless of if the light is on or not, the ring light turns off whenever the padel or the dimmer buttons are pressed. This is very annoying problem.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Yeah, I had the same issue. I had an electrician come out to install the switches to ensure that it was done correctly. The electrician is telling me the wiring is fine. It was reported by the electrician that both switches initially worked. I synced the switch to my Kasa app, it had me do a firmware update. The lights worked fine, worked from the app. Then found out the satellite switch did not work when I tried. He double and triple checked the wiring. Then the switches seem to now have gotten stuck in a 'boot mode', the amber WiFi indicator is on, and the 3rd white dot is illuminated on the master switch. I was in touch with technical support, it has been escalated - but now I don't know if they're planning to send me a new switch set? It would be nice to know what the amber WiFi image + 3rd white dot means and if it can be reset.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
I posted a message on the board, but it seems it's either stuck in moderation or it was deleted...
I have a HW: V1 FW:1.0.10 HS230Kit with a dead satellite (unresponsive to touch, no lights). Master can still power on the light and control dimness through it.
The master has the 5th from the right (3rd from the left) brightness level dot illuminated at all times.
Pulling it out of the wall, it appears (using my non-contact voltage tester) that both traveler 1 and 2 are dead from the master when the master is off and both are energized when the master is on... Or at the very most they're low voltage... I wish I had my multimeter with me to test voltages. It would also be helpful to know what the expected voltages are across each line in on and off.
- Copy Link
- Report Inappropriate Content
Information
Helpful: 4
Views: 23647
Replies: 45
Voters 0
No one has voted for it yet.